We've had many
(ok, maybe 4 or 5) requests from loyal fans regarding Papotage merchandise
and truthfully, we'd love to have you advertising our little website. But
frankly, who has the time to organize such a thing?
We are now proud to announce our first Papoproject: Make Your Own Damned Hat, a viable alternative to the rampant commercialization of the web, which remains focused on: a) your need to have something, and b) our need for you to have something with our name on it.
For those of you who knit, you'll find the instructions pretty straightforward. For those of you who are just learning, this might not be the easiest first project, but it isn't the hardest either and there still may be a few cold nights in the season for you to figure it out. We encourage those of you with the know-how to customize your hat as you see fit - sequins, pom-poms, you name it. (You could also call your favorite aunt and see what she can do for you.)
There are quite a few on-line knitting reference sites, below are a few links to pages where you will learn all you need to know to get started.
1-2 Balls worsted weight yarn beige
1 ball worsted weight yarn orange
US size 4 and 5 needles
1 set double pointed needles, size 5
1 large bobbin
size to obtain gauge.
Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
Size: Fits most adult heads
I used Jo Sharp
DK Wool available at Purl at 137 Sullivan Street, but any wool this weight
With size 4 needles, loosely cast on 105 stitches in main color.
Work 7 rows of K1 P1 rib - ending with a right side row.
Change to size 5 needles, and purl one row.
Join contrasting color yarn and work 2 rows stockinette stitch (Knit one row, purl one row). Break contrasting color yarn.
Continue in main color 2 more rows.
Begin lettering: join orange yarn and work in two colors, being careful to cross colors to avoid holes.
(I used a large bobbin for the descender of the "G" and two small lengths of yarn for the descenders of the 2 "P"s. After the first four rows of the pattern, continue with the bobbin for all the letters. This helps to avoid carrying the yarn across large numbers of stitches between the "G" and "P").
Once pattern is complete, divide stitches on 4 double pointed needles and work in the round to finish. This makes the decreases at the crown of the hat much easier. Place a marker at the beginning of the row. (From this point on you will be knitting every row.)
When work measures 4-3/4 inches, begin decreases.
Decreases will be done as follows: SSK = Slip 2 stitches one at a time, as if to knit. Slide left needle into front loops of these stitches, from left to right, and knit them together from this position.
ROW 1: K5, *(SSK), K19*, repeat from * to * 4 times. Knit remaining 14 stitches. You should have decreased 5 stitches so that 100 stitches remain.
ROW 2: Knit all stitches.
ROW 3: Decrease 1 stitch every 10 stitches, 10 times across the row, being sure to line decreases up with those in Row 1. 90 Stitches remain.
ROW 4: Knit all stitches.
ROW 5: Decrease 1 stitch every 9 stitches, 10 times across the row, being sure to line decreases up with those in previous rows. 80 Stitches remain.
ROW 6: Knit all stitches.
Continue in this manner, decreasing 10 stitches every other row, with one less stitch between decreases every time.
When 10 stitches remain, decrease every other stitch to 5 stitches.
Break yarn and, using darning needle, pull through stitches.
Sew seam at back of hat, work in yarn ends. You can add a little braided tassel at the top if you wish, or a big pom-pom.
DOUGLAS RICCARDI runs his own design studio, MEMO-NY. When not knitting or purling, he fearlessly (and brilliantly) serves as Art Director of Papotage.